How to Install GUNNER Kennel Wheel Kit: Step-by-Step Guide for Easy Mobility

Quick Answer

To install a GUNNER kennel wheel kit, start by turning the kennel upside down on a flat surface, then attach the wheel brackets to the pre-drilled holes on the bottom of the G1 kennel using the provided hardware. Tighten all bolts securely, then flip the kennel right-side up and test the wheels by rolling it a few feet to ensure they spin freely and lock properly. Always double-check that the wheels are aligned parallel to the kennel's length for straight rolling.

Moving a fully loaded GUNNER kennel from the truck to the campsite or into the house can be a real back-saver if you've got wheels. The GUNNER kennel wheel kit is designed to fit the rugged bottom of your G1 kennel, letting you roll it like a heavy-duty cart instead of dragging it. In this guide, we'll walk you through the installation step by step, so you can get your kennel rolling safely and securely.

Whether you're setting up for a hunt, a road trip, or just need to move the crate around the garage, a wheel kit changes the game. We'll cover the tools you'll need, the installation process, and a few common mistakes to avoid—like leaving a bolt loose or attaching the wheels at the wrong angle. By the end, you'll have a smooth-rolling kennel that's ready for your next adventure.

Tools You'll Need

Before you start, gather a few basic tools: a socket wrench or adjustable wrench, a Phillips-head screwdriver (in case any bolts use a cross-head), and a rubber mallet (optional) to help align stubborn brackets. Most GUNNER wheel kits come with the bolts, washers, and brackets needed, but having a torque wrench is a nice extra to ensure you don't overtighten and strip threads.

Work in a clean, flat area like a garage floor or driveway. Place a soft mat or piece of cardboard under the kennel to protect the finish while you flip it over. Also, keep the kennel's door closed and latched to prevent it from swinging open during the process—this also keeps the kennel rigid.

If you're working alone, consider a helper to hold the kennel steady while you fasten the brackets. It's not impossible solo, but an extra pair of hands makes it quicker and safer, especially when flipping the heavy crate.

• Socket wrench or adjustable wrench
• Torque wrench (optional but recommended)
• Rubber mallet (for alignment)
• Soft mat or cardboard for floor protection

Preparing the Kennel

Start by removing any items from inside the kennel and latching the door securely. Next, turn the kennel upside down so the bottom is facing you. If the kennel has rubber feet or existing mounting points, you'll want to identify them—they're usually at the four corners, and the wheel kit brackets align with these.

Inspect the kit: you should have two brackets (front and rear) and a set of bolts, washers, and nuts. If any hardware is missing, contact GUNNER support before proceeding. Do not improvise with hardware from a hardware store unless it matches the exact size and strength specified in the manual.

Position the brackets over the pre-drilled holes on the kennel's bottom. The holes are designed to match the kit's pattern, so if a bracket doesn't line up, you may be attaching it at the wrong angle. Some users find it helpful to lightly tap the bracket with a rubber mallet to seat it flush.

• Double-check that the door is latched before flipping.
• Align brackets with pre-drilled holes—don't force them.
• Make sure the kennel is fully dry and free of debris to avoid trapping moisture.

Attaching the Brackets

Slide a bolt through each bracket hole and the corresponding kennel hole, then add a washer and nut on the inside of the kennel (if accessible) or use the provided self-tapping screws if the kit calls for them. Tighten each bolt by hand first, then work in a crisscross pattern to secure the bracket evenly. This prevents one corner from being tighter than the other, which could cause wobbling.

Tip: Place the kennel on a sturdy workbench if you have one—this raises it to a comfortable working height and keeps the bottom flat. If you're on the floor, kneel on a pad to protect your knees. Use a torque wrench if available; most wheel kits specify a torque in inch-pounds, but if not, snug it up to where the bolt doesn't spin freely, then apply a quarter-turn more.

A common mistake is overtightening, which can strip the threads in the kennel's plastic or deform the bracket. Back off if you feel resistance that's too hard. Once both brackets are attached, flip the kennel right-side up and stand back to check alignment—the wheels should be in a straight line with each other.

• Tighten bolts in a crisscross pattern to avoid binding.
• If you overtighten and strip a thread, stop and get a replacement bolt—don't force it.
• Check that the wheels spin freely before using the kennel.

Step-by-Step Installation Checklist

1. Clear and prep: Remove any items from the kennel, latch the door, and flip the kennel upside down on a clean, flat surface. Ensure the bottom is free of mud or debris. Checkpoint: The kennel sits level and stable before you start tightening.
2. Align brackets: Position the wheel brackets over the pre-drilled holes on the kennel's bottom. Confirm the wheel axle points are oriented so the wheels will roll along the kennel's length, not sideways. Common mistake: Attaching a bracket backwards causes the wheel to bind or roll at an angle. Test alignment by hand before bolting.
3. Fasten hardware: Insert bolts through the bracket and kennel holes, add washers and nuts, and tighten in a crisscross pattern. Use a wrench or socket, and stop when snug—avoid over-tightening. Checkpoint: Give each bolt a wiggle—if it moves, tighten it a bit more; if the kennel's plastic seems to bulge, you've gone too far.
4. Flip and test: Flip the kennel right-side up and roll it a few feet on a smooth surface. Confirm both wheels engage and the kennel rolls straight without dragging. Test the brakes if your kit has them. Checkpoint: If the kennel veers, loosen the bolts and adjust the bracket alignment; then re-tighten.

Related GUNNER Products

• SECURITY LOCK KIT: GUNNER offers a keyed locking door to ensure that no one can steal your dog from your crate. Our Security Lock Kit accessory ensures that no one can steal your Gunner kennel from your truck or vehicle.This high-strength, black powder-coated bracket is used to secure your GUNNER dog crate with either a security chain or cable lock. Once you add wheels, your kennel becomes easier to roll away from a truck bed. Pairing the wheel kit with the Security Lock Kit secures the kennel to your vehicle or trailer so a thief can't quickly roll it away, keeping your investment and your dog safe.
• KENNEL BOWL: Our most requested accessory has landed. The GUNNER Kennel Bowl is the ultimate complement to your G1TM Kennel, ensuring your dog always stays hydrated. When you're rolling your kennel around a campsite or between locations, having a secure bowl that attaches to the kennel door keeps water from spilling during transit. It's a practical add-on that works with your new mobility setup.

Installing a GUNNER kennel wheel kit is a straightforward project that takes about 15 minutes and makes moving your kennel a breeze. With the right tools and attention to alignment, you'll have a stable, rolling crate ready for any adventure. For extra security on the road, pair it with the SECURITY LOCK KIT, and keep your dog hydrated with the KENNEL BOWL—both designed to complement your G1 kennel setup.